Out of the Smokies


We made it out. The Smokies were a wild ride, including the highest point of the entire trail, Clingman’s Dome, at over 6600 feet. Currently we are sitting around a campfire made by a couple of erstwhile Georgia thru-hikers, full of hot cocoa, and Vitamin D absorbed during an afternoon of sunny hiking through shallow snow. It’s a relief to be a bit lower, as the temps are dipping into the low 20s tonight down in the valleys.

The Smokies gave us rain, wind, hail, fog, thunder, cold nights… and vast views, the first flower, the first baby poison ivy sprout, and our first 23 mile day, which was exhilarating.

Unlike other parts of the Trail, hikers are required to stay in shelters, so we left our tent in the bag. I discovered I love shelters. No mice as yet, and the shelters there are made of elegant stone, with tarps blocking the opening from winds, and a fireplace in each. The night of the worst weather, we quit at 4 pm. We were joined by a family on spring break. As it hailed outside, they boiled a giant vat of soup. Then the father brought out a coffee tin in which he had concealed a birthday cake and candles for his son. And astronaut ice cream: lightweight, of course. We have watched with interest the different groups of people we pass: their differing energies, whether we want to share in them, or just observe from outside. We liked this group. Though I bet next time the mom stays home… she didn’t look too happy.

Also, my dreams have been bulging with food. Banquets, hors d’oeuvres, and everything in between. Also, beds. Funny how my desires have become so simple, so primal. Freud would be bored looking at my dreams.

Time to hit the hay now… bedtime is sundown, and we wake naturally before dawn. Before I go, though, I need to thank some more trail angels… in sleepy Fontana Dam, Stick Girl graced us with the trail magic of apples, bananas, tootsie rolls, honeydew melon, and a ride to the laundromat. And up in the hills, Fresh Grounds decamped in a gap with coffee, soup and bread on a chilly morning. Good dreams indeed!

5 Replies to “Out of the Smokies”

  1. Steve and I are currently planning a camping trip with some friends to the smokies. One in the group has backpacked to Clingman’s Dome. I had never heard of it until he recently told us about it as we were discussing where exactly in the smokies to go. I think it was meant for me to better understand this post 😉

    1. Cool! It would be extra amazing in spring or summer I think. We hope to go back someday and check out another popular feature, Charlie’s Bunion. Funny name, but a lot of people were going to see it and said it was neat.

  2. Wow…Paul & I rode our motor cycles to Clingman’s Dome! Loved our Appalachian tour! So fun to follow your trek !

  3. @Karin – ha! 🙂
    @Ann – I just caught up on the last five entries (in reverse order of chronology, slightly trippy), and I wanted to say your blog feels like essential reading to me right now. I’m grateful that you’re sharing your journey, and that you have the tools and instincts to do so in a way that reaches me at so many levels. Sending good wishes for richly complex sensations, perceptions and experiences!

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